Tow-Bars: The Absurdly Complete Buyer's Guide

You’re standing in an RV parts aisle (or scrolling a page with 47 nearly identical contraptions) thinking: “Why do all these tow bars look the same, and why is one $299 and the other $1,399?”

Let’s fix that—without putting you to sleep. By the end of this article, you’ll know exactly what you need, what you don’t, and which features are actually worth paying for when you’re flat towing behind a motorhome.

Tow Bar Basics for RV Enthusiasts

What a tow bar actually does

A tow bar is the metal linkage between your motorhome and the vehicle you’re towing (your “toad” or “dinghy”). It:

• Connects: Links the RV’s hitch to the toad’s baseplate or bumper mounts
• Controls: Keeps the toad tracking straight behind you instead of trying to pass you in a panic
• Articulates: Lets the toad turn, go over bumps, and survive campground speed bumps without becoming a pretzel

Tow bars are for flat towing—all four wheels of the toad on the ground.

They are not:

• A tow dolly
• A car hauler trailer
• A magical device that lets you tow a vehicle that the manufacturer says cannot be flat towed

If your owner’s manual says, “Do not flat tow,” a tow bar does not turn that “no” into a “maybe.”

The Main Species of RV Tow Bars

From a retail shopper’s perspective, there are four big categories you’ll actually encounter.

RV-Mounted Hitch Receiver Tow Bars

This is the most common style you’ll see in RV land.

Where it lives: Plugs into the 2" (or 2.5") receiver on the back of your motorhome.

Storage: Folds up and stays on the RV when not in use.

Hookup: You drive the toad close, swing the arms out, pin them to the baseplate, pull forward, and they lock automatically.

Pros:

• Convenient: Tow bar stays with the RV—no wrestling it into the trunk
• Cleaner hookup: You’re mostly working at the back of the RV, not under the toad’s bumper

Cons:

• Heavier: Many are 35–50+ lbs.
• Receiver height matters: You may need a drop/rise hitch to get the bar level

If you’re a motorhome owner flat towing a Jeep, SUV, or small car, this is almost certainly the category you want.

Car-Mounted (Ball Coupler) Tow Bars

These mount to the towed vehicle and connect to a ball mount on the RV.

Where it lives: Stays on the toad, folds up against its bumper or grille.

Connection: The tow bar has a coupler that drops onto a 2" (usually) trailer ball on the RV.

Pros:

• Great for multiple tow vehicles: Any RV with the right ball height can tow that car

Cons:

• More stuff on the toad means more weight on that vehicle
• Tow bar is hanging off the front of your car when not in use

These are more old-school and often appeal to budget shoppers or folks with older rigs.

Heavy-Duty and Pintle-Style Tow Bars

For the “I’m towing a small planet” crowd.

Use case: Heavy trucks, big SUVs, or commercial applications.

Connection: Often use a pintle hook instead of a standard ball or receiver.

Pros:

• High capacity: 10,000+ lbs ratings
• Rugged: Built to live a hard life

Cons:

• Overkill for most RVers: If you’re towing a Wrangler, you don’t need a pintle bar
• Heavier and bulkier: Not fun to move around if you don’t need it

If your toad weighs more than your first apartment, you’re shopping in this aisle.

Integrated Braking Tow Bars

These tow bars have a built-in supplemental braking system—the bar itself helps apply the toad’s brakes.

Famous example: NSA/Ready Brute Elite (tow bar + surge braking)

How it works: A mechanical surge mechanism in the tow bar pulls a cable connected to the toad’s brake pedal when the RV slows.

Pros:

• Two birds, one bar: Tow bar + braking system in one purchase
• No box on the floor: Nothing to set in front of the driver’s seat each time

Cons:

• More complex install: You’re running a brake cable into the toad’s cabin
• Less “plug and play” resale: Some buyers prefer separate systems

Note: If you hate setting up a portable brake box every travel day, this style is worth a serious look.

Anatomy of a Tow Bar 

Let’s decode the parts you’ll see in product photos and bullet points.

Arms: Fixed vs. Self-Aligning

Fixed A-Frame Arms

Old-school, budget bars.

You must line the toad up perfectly to pin them.

Great if you enjoy backing up, pulling forward, and swearing.

Telescoping / Self-Aligning Arms

Each arm extends and locks independently when you pull forward.

You can be a bit off-center and still hook up.

This is the feature that makes modern tow bars feel “easy.”

Note: If you tow more than twice a year, you want telescoping arms. Full stop.

Non-Binding Release Mechanisms

This is the magic phrase you’ll see on premium bars: “non-binding.”

The problem: On older bars, if the arms are under tension (like when you stopped on a slight angle), the release pins can be nearly impossible to pull.

The solution: Non-binding latches or levers let you release that tension and disconnect without a gym membership.

Note: If you’ve ever watched someone in a campground beating a tow bar with a rubber mallet, they did not buy a non-binding model.

Weight Rating and Safety Margin

Common capacities:

• 5,000–6,000 lbs: Designed for small cars and many crossovers
• 7,500–8,000 lbs: Typically for larger SUVs and trucks
• 10,000+ lbs: The workhorse for heavy toads such as a Ford F-150

Rule of thumb: Know your toad’s actual curb weight, not just “it’s a small SUV, it’s probably fine.” And add a safety margin—don’t run a 4,800 lb vehicle on a 5,000 lb bar if you can avoid it.

Build in at least a 20% margin for safety.

Note: If you’re between sizes, go up a class. The price difference is usually less than one tow bill.

Materials: Steel vs. Aluminum

Steel Tow Bars

• Heavier, usually cheaper
• Very strong, very durable
• Can rust if neglected

Aluminum or Hybrid Bars

• Lighter—your back will notice
• Still very strong when properly engineered

Note: If you’re the one lifting and folding the bar every travel day, aluminum starts to feel like a luxury worth paying for.

Beyond the Tow Bar

A tow bar is just one piece of the flat-towing puzzle. Here are some crucial components that may or may not come with your tow bar.

Baseplates or Mounting Brackets

Your tow bar needs something solid to attach to on the toad.

Baseplate kits:

• Vehicle-specific brackets that bolt to the frame of the toad
• Have neat attachment points visible in the grille or bumper

Bumper-mount or D-ring adapters:

• Common on off-road bumpers for Jeeps
• You may need specific adapters to match your tow bar brand

Key point: Baseplate compatibility used to lock you into a brand, but now some brands utilize baseplates from Blue Ox, Roadmaster, and/or Demco to simplify the process. Additionally, adapters exist so you can mix brands more easily.

Safety Cables

These are not optional decoration.

Purpose: If the tow bar or hitch fails, the cables keep the toad attached long enough for you to stop.

Rating: Must be at least equal to or greater than the tow bar rating.

Routing: Cross them under the tow bar to create a cradle—this helps catch the tongue if something fails.

Note: Many premium bars include cables; budget bars often don’t.

Electrical Umbilical and Lighting

Your toad needs turn signals, brake lights, and running lights.

Options include:

• Diode kits: Use the toad’s existing lights with diodes to prevent backfeeding
• Separate bulb kits: Add a second bulb in the taillight housing just for towing
• Magnetic lights: Temporary lights stuck to the body—great for short-term or multiple vehicles

Note: You’ll also need an electrical cable (often 6- or 7-way) between RV and toad.

Supplemental Braking System

In most places, if your toad is over a certain weight, you’re legally required to have its own brakes activated when towing.

Common types include:

• Portable brake boxes: Sit on the floor in front of the driver’s seat and push the pedal
• Permanently installed systems: Use vacuum, air, or electric actuators
• Integrated tow bar systems: Like Ready Brute Elite

Note: Even if your state is lax, braking systems are about stopping distance and not overworking your RV’s brakes. It’s not just a legal checkbox.

How to Choose the Right Tow Bar

Let’s walk through this like you’re standing in the aisle with a salesperson who actually knows their stuff.

Step 1: Confirm Your Vehicle Can Be Flat Towed

Check the owner’s manual under “Recreational Towing” or “Towing Behind a Motorhome.”

If it says, “not recommended” or “damage may occur,” believe it.

If it can’t be flat towed, you’re shopping for a dolly or trailer, not a tow bar.

Step 2: Know Your Toad’s Weight

Look up the curb weight of your exact year/trim.

Add 20% minimum for cargo, aftermarket bumpers, etc.

Match or exceed that with your tow bar rating.

If you’re close to a rating limit, go up a class.

Step 3: Decide How Often You’ll Tow

Occasional / seasonal towing:
A mid-range steel bar with telescoping arms is usually perfect. You may not need every premium feature.

Frequent / full-time towing:
Non-binding arms are a must. Lighter weight (aluminum) is worth it.

Step 4: Choose RV-Mounted vs. Car-Mounted

Do you want the bar to live on the RV (most people do)?

Or are you okay with it living on the toad and using a ball coupler?

For 90% of modern motorhome owners, RV-mounted receiver bars are the best choice.

Step 5: Decide on Integrated Braking vs. Separate System

If you hate setup time and like mechanical simplicity, an integrated braking tow bar is very attractive.

If you want flexibility between multiple toads or already own a brake system, a standard tow bar is fine.

Step 6: Consider Your Back and Your Patience

If you have back or shoulder issues, weight matters—look at aluminum or hybrid bars.

If you have zero patience for fiddly gear, non-binding, self-aligning arms are non-negotiable.

Paying a few hundred more once is cheaper than regretting your purchase every single travel day.

Step 7: Compare Warranties

This is the primary indicator of the confidence the manufacturer places in the product.

Many tow bars have a lifetime warranty. Settle for nothing less.

Common Mistakes When Purchasing or Using a Tow Bar

Buying on Price Alone

Mistake: “This one is $299 and that one is $1,099. They look the same. I’ll take the cheap one.”

Reality: The difference is in ease of hookup, ease of disconnect, durability, and features.

Note: If you tow a lot, the “expensive” bar is often cheaper per trip.

Not Comparing All Brands and Models

Too many people just order a name they have heard of without considering items such as warranty and available features.

Ignoring the Rest of the System

Buying a tow bar without budgeting for baseplate, a braking system, wiring, and cables.

The tow bar is just one line item. Plan the whole system cost up front.

Not Leveling the Tow Bar

Tow bars are designed to work close to level between RV and toad.

If the RV hitch is much higher or lower than the toad’s baseplate, you need a drop/rise hitch.

Running way out of level can stress the bar and affect handling.

Skipping Maintenance

Tow bars need:

• Periodic lubrication (per manufacturer instructions)
• Visual inspection for wear, cracks, or bent components
• Boot and latch checks

Note: If your tow bar looks like it’s been stored at the bottom of the ocean, it’s time for service—or replacement.

Final Sanity Checklist Before You Buy

Before you swipe the card or click Place Order, run through this checklist:

• My vehicle is confirmed flat-towable in the owner’s manual
• I know my toad’s weight and my tow bar rating exceeds it with margin
• I’ve chosen RV-mounted vs. car-mounted intentionally
• I understand I also need:
  • Baseplate or mounting solution
  • Safety cables
  • Wiring/lighting
  • Supplemental braking system
• I’ve thought about how often I’ll tow and chosen features accordingly
• I’m not buying the absolute cheapest thing just because it’s shiny and on sale

If you can check all of those, you’re not just buying a tow bar—you’re buying a setup that will make every departure and arrival less stressful and a lot less sweaty.

Why Choose Ultra-Fab

Ultra-Fab is known for their quality across all their product types. They always have the longest warranty available due to their drive to make superior products. That determination is also seen in their tow bars.

Choosing the right tow bar isn’t just about specs on a chart—it’s about making every hookup, every disconnect, and every mile behind the wheel easier, safer, and a whole lot less stressful. It’s about knowing that the company behind the tow bar has your back. That’s Ultra-Fab.

Now that you’ve seen how the top models stack up, it’s time to stop guessing and start towing with confidence. Pick the Ultra-Fab tow bar that is right for your vehicle, your travel style, and your sanity level, and upgrade your setup before your next trip sneaks up on you.

Your RV is ready. Your toad is ready. The open road is definitely ready.

The only question left is: which tow bar are you taking home today?